Building Wooden Driveway Gates in Four Steps
Installing a driveway gate is a great way to add a little elegance to your home while protecting your privacy. How one is installed will depend on the look you want, the materials you want (wood, wrought iron, etc.) and whether or not you have a fence of some sort already surrounding your property. Concrete driveway cost Perth depends on many different things. Square footage, thickness, and sub-base preparation are just a few.
This guide will be for those with a fence wanting a wooden gate, however, many of the principles can be applied to other situations.
Step 1 – Attach Posts
If you have a concrete/stone fence, start with two 2×8 beams. These will be the left and right posts for the gate, so cut them to the same height as the posts of your fence. Drill holes through the 2×8 beams and into the fence posts roughly every foot using a masonry bit and attach them with lag bolts. The 2×8 beams will be used to attach the hinges and latch of your gate to your fence.
If you have a wooden fence, check the size of your posts where you want to attach the gate. If they are 6×6 or larger, they will work, however, if they are smaller you will have to plant 6×6 gate posts against the fence posts, as anything smaller won’t be strong enough to hold up your gate. If you have no fence at all, make sure your gate posts are at least 6×6. Cut them to at least 1 1/2 feet longer than the height you want; this extra will be buried. Dig your hole about two feet deep. Fill the first four to six inches with sand or gravel to allow water drainage. Then, insert your posts and fill the rest of the hole with concrete while continually checking the level. Let the concrete dry overnight.
Step 2 – Build the Wooden Gate Frame
Build a square frame with 2x4s to fit between your posts, leaving about half an inch on each side so it will swing freely without binding. Allow at least four to six inches of space between the ground and bottom of the frame (or more if your driveway slopes upward). Place a diagonal 2×4 from one corner to the other; this extra support will keep the frame from sagging over time.
Step 3 – Attach Risers
Drill vertical risers into your frame. The size is up to you, though more 2x4s will work fine. Also, the distance between them is your choice, though you’ll need at least 1/8 of an inch to account for swelling of the wood—anything less and the swelling could damage your risers. Most wooden driveway gates don’t have more than an inch of space between risers.
Step 4 – Hang Your Gate
Attach your hinges to one side of your gate. Then, to attach them to the post, it is best to set your gate on blocks at the height you plan to have it, screw your hinges into the posts, and remove the blocks. Similarly, attach your latch (make sure its capable of opening from both sides) to the other side of the gate first, close your gate, and secure the other latch piece to your post.
How to Seal an Asphalt Driveway
Sealing a driveway isn’t a difficult task in and of itself, but without doing the necessary preparation before applying the sealer, your project can very easily go wrong, and you can find yourself with an improper seal.
Putting a sealant over an asphalt driveway keeps out moisture, keeps large cracks from forming, and is a general form of preventative maintenance. If done well, a proper sealcoating can penetrate pre-existing cracks to seal them before they expand and can even improve the overall appearance of asphalt to a point where it looks like new. Learn more on how to improve your driveway.
Step 1 – Inspect the Surface
Start by first taking a good look at your driveway surface. The surface can be marred by everything from bird poop and oil stains to cracks and potholes. You’re going to want get these out before putting on any sealant. These can cause the sealant to be less effective.
Step 2 – Address the Stains
Sweep away any large, dry debris using a broom or a hose. Lingering stains from oil and other tough substances will require a little more elbow grease. Warm water, soap, and a scrub brush should be enough to wash most driveways. You may need to apply a de-greaser for some oil stains
Step 3 – Repair Cracks
The next obstacle is cracks. You must fill in cracks prior to sealing and also allow enough time for the filler to dry. Smaller cracks can usually be taken care of with a liquid sealer. However, larger cracks will need asphalt repair caulk and may need more than one application. During the drying process, the caulk loses moisture and may shrink. A second application will make it flush with the driveway surface.
For deep cracks, place a foam backing in the crack and then cover with the asphalt caulk.
Step 4 – Fill Potholes
Potholes are much larger and severe than any cracks, and no amount of asphalt caulk is going to take be enough to fix a pothole.
Instead, you’re going to need to use cold patch or quick concrete patching product for actual asphalt repair. It’s basically ready-to-use asphalt and simply needs to be shoveled and compacted into the hole. As easy as the cold patch makes the process, you still may need to do it more than once, as settling can cause the surface to shift so it is no longer flush with the rest of the driveway.
Step 5 – Choose the Right Window to Apply
You’re going to need two or three days of good sunny weather both prior to application and during your sealcoating. It takes a while for the seal to properly dry, and any amount of rain will erode at the sealant and eventually wash it away.
Step 6 – Choose a Sealant Variety
There are four types of sealant available: tar emulsion, asphalt-emulsion, latex-acrylic, and rubber sealant with titanium fortification.
Tar emulsion is cheap, but it’s hard to apply and needs constant stirring to prevent solidification when not being applied.
This option is a little more expensive, but it is the most popular option for homeowners. Asphalt-emulsion lasts longer than tar and provides better protection.
Latex-acrylic provides even better protection and dries faster, but it’s also expensive, usually more than double that of an asphalt-emulsion sealer.
Rubber with Titanium
The absolute best option for sealcoating asphalt is a liquid rubber sealer with titanium fortification. This kind of sealer costs about $500 for 5 gallons, compared with $65 for 2 gallons of the latex-acrylic.
Step 7 – Apply the Seal
Regardless of which sealer you choose, they are all generally applied the same way. You’ll need a specialized tool that has a long handle and a squeegee and one end and a brush at the other. Pour about a foot-long strip of sealant onto the pavement, use the squeegee to spread it, and the brush to make it even. Start at one end and work your way to the other. Some sealer types can be applied with a paint roller if you prefer that way.
Let it set for about 12 hours to dry and then apply a second layer. Keep people, pets, and vehicles off of the asphalt for at least a day so that any additional coats can dry properly.
Looking for other ways to improve curb appeal? Get some color with sidewalk staining.